Sensual Scotland, in a box!

As we enter St. Andrew's Day weekend, Historic Scotland sites around the country are throwing open their doors and saying "come in!" For places like Edinburgh Castle where the entry fee is usually around £13, this is an opportunity for many people to visit these ancient places for the first time.

I however have not planned to visit any historic sites this weekend as I am heading through to the west for a little r&r with the Scotsman.

Before I go, I will tell you that beside me in the livingroom is a box. In the box is a collection of small but delightful treats from Scotland, purposefully chosen in order to delight each and every one of the senses. Now I can't tell you what is in the box as that would ruin the surprise for whoever is destined to open it. Needless to say I think the Scottish mystery parcel will make one lucky person very happy indeed.

This is my end-of-year giveaway, moved up because the final holiday posting dates are quite early this year. It is my little thank you for reading along and celebrating Scotland with me - an attempt to wrap up Scotland and send it through the post.

As this is the last giveaway of the year and in the spirit of Historic Scotland's doors open day, entries are open to anyone who wishes to take part.

To enter: Leave me a comment telling me about your favourite sensual thing about Scotland (omitting the intimate details of your amorous romp on Rannoch Moor). If you don't have a blog to link back to please email me at scotland4thesenses@googlemail.com and include "mystery box" in the subject line.

The only favour I ask is that the winner post or send me a photo of their spoils, so the mystery can be revealed!

Deadline will be 2nd December and the winner's name will drawn from the hat on the 3rd. This leaves me a bit of time to get to the post office.
 
So haul out your Saltires and sing Auld Lang Syne, because this is the time to be stand up and be proud of Scotland.

Stretching time in Oban

I’m sorry that some guidebooks don’t praise Oban the way they should. A passing mention about McCaig’s Tower followed by a few seafood recommendations, then it’s all about catching the ferry to Mull or another island.

The first time I visited Oban it was a day trip by bus from Fort William. I stepped off the bus in the town centre and was immediately at home. Small but bustling, it is one of those towns where a tourist can become familiar with the main streets within a couple of hours, resulting in a feeling of settling in, a sense of comfort that usually develops only when one has stayed somewhere for at least a few days.

With the Island of Kerrera acting as a snug defender against the sea, Oban’s harbour curves long and languidly, with shops and cafes giving way to houses and bed and breakfasts. Bold and grey in the day, beautifully lit at night, McCaig’s Tower does indeed dominate from its hilltop perch. This Rome-inspired project was begun by a local businessman a century ago but was abandoned after he died. A steep trail leads to where the failed Colosseum hosts a simple garden and offers panoramic views.

Although it is the largest port in Northwest Scotland, even the street vendors seem to value the premise of slow food, with fresh, incredible seafood morsels readily available. The next time my Scotsman and I pass through town I want to have a proper sit-down meal at one of Oban’s popular seafood restaurants.

However I can say that if you love food and you are in Oban, you cannot miss the Kitchen Garden. Oh, the cheese, the biscuits, the vinegars and oils! And if you enjoy a wee dram, then oh the whisky! With its high, well-stocked shelves and complete dedication to all things luscious, The Kitchen Garden is one of my favourite delicatessens and cafes. The café is upstairs and with such a cheese selection available it is worth at least one person in the group ordering the Ploughman’s Lunch. At least you can all get a nibble. To get an idea of what I’m on about, visit their site and take the “virtual tour.” Look for the little lady in the doorway!

Rather that seeing Oban as a “jumping off” point to other destinations, I suggest Oban is the place where the mind transitions, gearing down as the senses reopen to the joys of simple pleasures. The scent of the sea, the swoop of the gulls, the gentle bobbing of the fishing boats in the harbour, or the slothful approach of a Calmac Ferry. Time just seems to stretch a little. As a tourist, Oban is a place where it is just so easy to feel good.

I don't know about you, but I feel good just thinking about it.

Revisiting Linlithgow

When I first moved to Scotland I lived in the quaint royal burgh of Linlithgow, birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots and in 2222, Scotty from Star Trek. (Although if you watch the recent film, you will note that actor Simon Pegg reinvented the character as a Glaswegian).

Linlithgow has everything: a charming high street, an ancient stone palace, stunning nature walks, an excellent chocolate shop that sells the best strawberry cremes around, and an award-winning, gorgeous pub with low ceilings and arched fireplaces. Placed centrally between Edinburgh and Glasgow, it’s an easy destination to add to a tour calendar and yet it leaves you feeling like you have been somewhere “off the map.”

The palace is the main thing most people visit, along with St. Michael’s Church with its bizarre and strangely beautiful aluminium spire. The palace sits atop a sloping green hill above Linlithgow Loch, where swans and ducks float past old men in small fishing boats. On a sunny day, especially in the late spring, it is an achingly romantic sight.

Dating from the 15th century, much of the palace was destroyed by fire in 1746, but you can still wander through the roofless ruin and imagine the previous splendour that would have dominated rooms like the great hall and the royal suites.

I think it a shame when I see tourists stopping only to visit the palace without taking in a little of the landscape. Even taking the time to walk around the St. Michael’s graveyard or the quiet enclosed rose garden just off the palace entrance drive, adds something extra. The best way to enrich your senses is to walk the trail that goes around the loch, as it offers amazing views of the palace from a distance. Should you need sustenance for the two-mile trek, you could always stop at the Golden Chip on the high street before leaving (wink).

If you have all day, and I hope you do, you can visit the Union Canal and take a leisurely boat trip to the Falkirk Wheel. Or you can walk a short distance along the canal until you get to the road that leads uphill to the entrance to Beecraigs Country Park, one of my favourite places in West Lothian. Although many enjoy the hike up to Cockleroy Hill for the views, I always preferred to stay among the trees, ducking off the trail at one beloved spot to gaze down at the farms below.

Since we are nearing the holidays, it is worth noting that if you happen to be visiting Scotland over Christmas, a journey to St. Michael’s for their Carols by Candlelight service in late December is well worth the trip.

Can’t get enough of Linlithgow? One photographer recently completed a year-long series of photos of Linlithgow Loch. They put my little happy snaps to shame and will definitely make you want to visit.

The enduring mystery of the Farr Stone

Scotland is one of those places where it is worth travelling a long distance for a piece of stone. The curving spine of an old wall, the crumbling nave of an ancient kirk, and the fading, interlocking knots chiselled by hand hundreds of years ago.

In the north of Scotland near the crofting village of Bettyhill, sits the old Farr Church, which now houses the Strathnaver Museum. The graveyard surrounding the church would not look to be anything special, except for one giant, weathered monument jutting from the ground.

Six feet high and thought to date from around the 10th century, The Farr Stone is one of the best early examples of Celtic art. So far I have found very little information about the stone, which is still remarkably detailed despite enduring centuries of a harsh northern climate. I regret not having gone into the museum to ask more, but at the time I just wanted to stand next to something so very old, and wonder.

I don’t know whose grave the stone would have marked or what that person did to deserve such an intricate work. You can still see at the bottom of the cross, two creatures that look like swans, their necks entwined.

It has been so long, this stone stands as a mark to a growing sense of secrecy. The surrounding countryside is rough and beautiful, with remains of early villages interspersed with sandy beaches and dramatic views towards the estuary of the River Naver. The museum is dedicated to keeping alive the stories of the early crofters and how they were affected by the clearances. All I can think of are the ghosts of a man's warm hands against this rock, his fingers moving through the grooves he had carved.

Despite its lonely stature and isolated placement, the stone is not without its very alert and suspicious guards, who wander the grounds pretending to examine the lawn. One thing is certain; if they have solved the mystery, they don't seem interested in sharing.

Giving away some DVDs

On with the gift giving! Thanks for taking part in my first "pay it forward" giveaway. I appreciate everyone's enthusiasm.

Micki at Irish Muses volunteers at a nursing home and will be sharing the DVD with one of the residents there.

Danielle's husband loves the bagpipes and hopes that their four-month-old might grow up to play.

Carol at A Scot in Tennessee will be giving a DVD to her father for Christmas.

Over in Canada, Suzanne's daughter is a highland dancer and wasn't able to join her class on a trip to The Gathering earlier this year, but will now be able to watch 100 highland dancers on the Castle Esplanade.

Adam is the son of blogger ccqdesigns. He won't be able to join his family for a trip to the Isle of Skye next year, so the Tattoo DVD will be a little slice of Scotland for him to enjoy.

Cornelia in Germany will be giving a DVD to her husband, an ex-pat Scot who gets a little homesick from time to time.

Bella McBride wants the DVD for her mother, who has been working hard at researching her family's Scottish heritage.

I hope Linda's daughter will be surprised with her DVD for Christmas, as a reminder of their recent trip to Scotland.

Winners, please email me your address to scotland4thesenses@googlemail.com so I can get mailing:)

We will now return to our usual sensual programming.